家常菜 紅燒肉
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小時候常以紅燒肉佐膳，但最令我沮喪的是未能炮製好這經典上海家常菜。故常以其為非健康食品作藉口，逃避去弄這菜，但在心底深處又常覺這是我廚藝中一個隱藏已久的挑戰。我曾到處搜尋最準確的食譜，不恥下問、不惜代價尋找真相，卻從未滿足於自己的成果。我認為紅燒肉可以是一道很容易做，但同時也是相當複雜的菜。作為從不走容易的路的廚師，我惟有選擇複雜的做法。因為此菜的炒糖色（這方法常在四川菜中採用）是成功的關鍵。以下就是我做這經典菜的製法。
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製法
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1. 把連皮豬腩肉在滾水中煮10分鐘至有泡沫浮面。
Blanch the belly pork with skin in boiling water for 10 minutes so that the scum rises.
Blanch the belly pork with skin in boiling water for 10 minutes so that the scum rises.
2. 汆水後，放水龍頭下以冷水沖洗潺垢。
Drain and rinse the belly pork well under cold running tap water to remove all the slime and dirt.
Drain and rinse the belly pork well under cold running tap water to remove all the slime and dirt.
3. 然後用潔淨的布抹乾。
Dry the pork thoroughly with clean towel.
Dry the pork thoroughly with clean towel.
4. 將豬腩肉切去肉質結實的底層部分，然後連皮切成1吋乘11/2吋方塊。
Cut off the tough outer layer of lean meat from the belly pork.Now cut the pork with the skin into 1"×11/2" chunks.
Cut off the tough outer layer of lean meat from the belly pork.Now cut the pork with the skin into 1"×11/2" chunks.
5. 鑊燒紅，放油2湯匙，加入豬腩肉，以慢火炒勻，直至把豬肉內的油都炒出，並炒至金黃色及產生香味，然後盛起備用。
Heat up a wok, add 2 tbsp of oil and stir-fry the cut pork over low heat until oil from the pork oozes out, turned golden in colour and aromatic. Dish and set aside.
Heat up a wok, add 2 tbsp of oil and stir-fry the cut pork over low heat until oil from the pork oozes out, turned golden in colour and aromatic. Dish and set aside.
6. 把多餘的油倒掉。
Pour away excess oil.
Pour away excess oil.
7. 以慢火另起鑊燒紅，放1湯匙油。當油微熱後，加入2湯匙冰糖拌勻，炒至完全融化。調至中高火煮糖至泛起泡沫變成焦糖色。
To a clean wok over low heat, add 1 tbsp of oil. When the oil warms up, stir in the crystal sugar, and stir-fry until the sugar has melted. Now turn the heat to medium high so the sugar foams up and begin to caramelize.
To a clean wok over low heat, add 1 tbsp of oil. When the oil warms up, stir in the crystal sugar, and stir-fry until the sugar has melted. Now turn the heat to medium high so the sugar foams up and begin to caramelize.
8. 加入21/2杯水，把火調高，煮滾至糖漿完全溶解。
Pour 21/2 cups of water into the wok, and with heat on high, bring the water to a boil making sure the syrup is all dissolved.
Pour 21/2 cups of water into the wok, and with heat on high, bring the water to a boil making sure the syrup is all dissolved.
9. 另起鑊燒紅，放入1湯匙油，炒香葱及薑、灒2湯匙油，再加入2湯匙老抽、2湯匙生抽，放入豬腩肉，翻炒至豬肉上色。
Heat up a clean wok, add 1 tbsp oil, stir fry the spring onion and ginger until fragrant. Sizzle in 2 tbsp of wine together with 2tbsp dark soy sauce and 2 tbsp light soy sauce. Now add the pork and stir fry with the sauce until it has taken on a deep colour.
Heat up a clean wok, add 1 tbsp oil, stir fry the spring onion and ginger until fragrant. Sizzle in 2 tbsp of wine together with 2tbsp dark soy sauce and 2 tbsp light soy sauce. Now add the pork and stir fry with the sauce until it has taken on a deep colour.
10. 現在放進糖漿水（水要剛過豬肉），再加入1茶匙南乳、1個八角及1個草果來調味。
Now you add the syrup water but make sure the water just cover the pork. Season the water with 1 tsp red fermented bean curd, 1 star anise, 1 black cardamon.
Now you add the syrup water but make sure the water just cover the pork. Season the water with 1 tsp red fermented bean curd, 1 star anise, 1 black cardamon.
11. 將肉及糖漿水等倒進一小型燜煲，再以中高水燜11/2小時，或燜至豬肉九成腍。燜的過程中可加水補充。
Pour everything into a 23/4 quart casserole, and over medium high heat, braise the belly pork for 11/2 hours or until the meat is 90% soft. You might have add water during the braising.
Pour everything into a 23/4 quart casserole, and over medium high heat, braise the belly pork for 11/2 hours or until the meat is 90% soft. You might have add water during the braising.
12. 加入剩餘的2湯匙冰糖、鹽及雞粉或依個人口味調味。
Now add the remaining 2 tbsp of crystal sugar, salt and chicken powder or adjust to personal taste.
Now add the remaining 2 tbsp of crystal sugar, salt and chicken powder or adjust to personal taste.
13. 以猛火煮滾醬汁至變稠，並讓豬腩肉均勻地蘸滿醬。趁熱享用。
Bring the sauce down over high heat until it is syrupy and thick enough to coat the meat. Serve and enjoy!
Bring the sauce down over high heat until it is syrupy and thick enough to coat the meat. Serve and enjoy!
秘訣
| 1. | 倘若要豬肉肥而不膩、入口即化，秘訣是切除豬腩肉的底層肉，原因在於現在的豬肉肉質有別於當年，尤其豬腩內的底層肉特別難燜得軟嫩，就算加長燜的時間，亦不能解決此問題，只會將豬腩肉肥的部分煮融，瘦的部分仍然乾及硬，切除的底層肉可以留起放湯。 |
| 2. | 做紅燒肉最關鍵的一點是將腩肉先放少許油以小火不停翻炒，直至把肉中的油都炒出，並炒至金黃色，另一個關鍵便是炒糖色。 |
| 3. | 我用美國豬肉，因為本地豬的肉質不穩定，美國五花腩可於盈豐公司（查詢：2425 6900）訂購。 |
| 1. | Here in Hong Kong, we can no longer source the quality fresh pork of yesteryear. That means you may find it is very difficult to tenderize the tough outer layer of lean meat on belly pork. Your natural inclination is to increase the braising time. But because of the long hours of cooking, the part of porkwith the fat and skin melts away, and the lean meat remains tough and dry. I, therefore, would cut off this tough outer layer of lean meat and reserve it to make soup. By removing this tough layer of meat, my red braised pork is fork tender, melts in your mouth and is most succulent. |
| 2. | It is a relatively easy dish to accomplish, the only difficult part and the key to success is in making the syrup, And you also need to stir-fry the cut pork with littly oil over low heat until oil from the pork oozes out, turned golden in colour and aromatic. |
| 3. | I use pork from USA, because I find the standard of the local pork is not consistent. You can obtain USA belly pork from Food Shop at Tel：2425 6900. |
紅燒肉㸆大墨魚及蛋 Stewed Pork with Cuttlefish and Eggs
以上是做紅燒肉的基本食譜，你可以嘗試創製出更多不同的菜式。紅燒肉㸆大墨魚及蛋便是上海家庭最受歡迎的小菜之一。
The above is the basic recipe for red braised belly pork. You can have fun with the many variations on this dish. The most common and well taken by many Shanghai families is Stewed Pork with Cuttlefish and Eggs.
| 材料 | Ingredients |
|---|---|
| 大墨魚 600克 | 600g cuttlefish |
| 雞蛋 4隻 | 4 eggs |
方法 Method
| 1. | 墨魚切成中等大小，然後在滾水中燙數分鐘後瀝乾。 |
| 2. | 雞蛋放入冷水，用中火煮水至滾，將蛋煮熟，立即浸在冷水中剝殼。 |
| 3. | 當肉燜至大約50分鐘時，加入墨魚及熟蛋，再繼續燜多一小時，或至豬肉及墨魚腍身。 |
| 4. | 加入剩餘的2湯匙冰糖，或依個人口味調味。 |
| 5. | 以猛火煮滾醬汁，至變稠並讓豬腩肉、墨魚及雞蛋均勻地蘸滿醬汁。趁熱享用。 |
| 1. | Cut cuttlefish in medium size pieces, then blanch in hot water for a few minutes. Drain. |
| 2. | Place eggs in cold water, then bring to a boil and cook until they become hard boil eggs. Immediately soak cooked eggs in cold water and peel off the shells. |
| 3. | After the pork has been stewed for 50 minutes, add the cuttlefish and eggs and continue to stew for another hour or until the cuttlefish and pork are both soft. |
| 4. | Now add the remaining 2 tbsp of crystal sugar, or adjust to personal taste. |
| 5. | Bring the sauce down over high heat until it is syrupy and thick enough to coat the meat, cuttlefish and eggs. Serve and enjoy! |
